What is an INCI? A Guide to Understanding Your Skincare Ingredients

Navigating the world of skincare product labels can be confusing. To truly understand what you're putting on your body, it's essential to look past marketing claims and learn how to interpret the ingredient list itself.

The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, or INCI system, provides a standardized language for cosmetic ingredient names. This system is used globally to ensure consistency and transparency. Here’s a simple guide to help you read and understand a typical INCI list:

• Order of Concentration: Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, from the highest to the lowest. This means the first five ingredients typically make up the bulk of the product's formula. If an ingredient is listed at the very end, its concentration is likely below 1%. This is a crucial detail for identifying whether a "hero" ingredient is truly a key component or simply a small addition.

• Common Terminology: The INCI list often uses Latin scientific names for botanical ingredients (e.g., Calendula officinalis for calendula extract) and technical names for chemical compounds. Understanding a few common categories can make a big difference:

  • Humectants (e.g., Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid): Attract water from the air to the skin, providing hydration.

  • Emollients (e.g., Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil): Smooth and soften the skin by filling in gaps between cells.

  • Occlusives (e.g., Beeswax, Mineral Oil): Form a protective layer on the skin to prevent moisture loss.

• Natural vs. Synthetic: The INCI system doesn't differentiate between natural and synthetic origins. A compound can be synthetically produced in a lab or extracted from a plant. For example, Vitamin C can be listed as "Ascorbic Acid" whether it's from a citrus fruit or a laboratory. At Salve Naturals, we prioritize botanically-derived ingredients and our commitment to using freshly made extractions is a key part of our brand identity.

By taking the time to understand these basics, you can become a more informed consumer, making confident choices that align with your personal values and skincare goals.

Citations

1. Salem, I., Ramser, A., Isham, N., & Ghannoum, M. A. (2018). The Gut Microbiome as a Major Regulator of the Gut-Skin Axis. Frontiers in Microbiology, 9, 1459.

2. Bocheva, G., & Ivanova, S. (2018). The Role of Water for the Function of Skin Barrier and Skin Hydration. Journal of Skin and Stem Cell, 5(2), 1-8.

3. Paliwal, S. P., Chauhan, M., & Saini, P. (2019). A Review on Skin Aging: Role of Natural Antioxidants. International Journal of Research and Development in Pharmacy and Life Sciences, 8(2), 3462-3470.

Article by: Dahlia Kelada MSHS-INTM, SALVE Founder/CEO and Integrative Medicine Educator