Demystifying Skincare Acids: A Guide to Chemical Exfoliation

The word "acid" can sound a little intimidating when it comes to skincare, but trust me, it’s one of the most effective tools in my entire routine. Forget everything you thought you knew about harsh chemicals—today's chemical exfoliants are scientifically formulated to be precise, gentle, and highly effective. They work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells at a deeper level, leading to a smoother, clearer complexion. I consider them the absolute secret weapon for targeted skin concerns.

When it comes to chemical exfoliants, there are two main categories you should know about: AHAs and BHAs. Each has a unique role in your routine.

• AHAs (Alpha-Hydroxy Acids): These are water-soluble acids that work on the surface of your skin to improve texture, hydration, and tone.

  • Glycolic Acid: A small AHA molecule, it can penetrate deeply to target fine lines and uneven skin texture.

  • Lactic Acid: A larger AHA molecule, it’s a gentler option that also helps to hydrate the skin, making it great for sensitive or dry skin types. (My favorite!)

  • Mandelic Acid: A gentle AHA that is perfect for sensitive skin and helps to manage hyperpigmentation.

  • Malic Acid: Found in apples, this large AHA molecule provides a gentle exfoliation.

  • Citric Acid: From citrus fruits, it helps brighten and even skin tone.

  • Tartaric Acid: A natural AHA found in grapes that supports the work of other acids.

  • Gluconolactone: A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that offers a very mild exfoliation, making it one of the gentlest options available.

  • Lactobionic Acid: Another PHA, it provides gentle exfoliation while also having humectant properties to help with hydration.

  • Azelaic Acid: A versatile acid that helps with redness, acne, and hyperpigmentation.

  • Phytic Acid: A gentle exfoliant from grains that helps brighten the complexion.

• BHAs (Beta-Hydroxy Acids): Unlike AHAs, these acids are oil-soluble, which allows them to travel into your pores to dissolve sebum and debris.

  • Salicylic Acid: This is the most common BHA. It's highly effective at unclogging pores, reducing blackheads, and preventing breakouts.

  • Betaine Salicylate: A gentle derivative of salicylic acid that provides similar pore-clearing benefits.

  • Willow Bark Extract: A natural source of a BHA precursor.

  • Lipo-Hydroxy Acid (LHA): A derivative of salicylic acid that provides a targeted, precise exfoliation, ideal for acne-prone skin.

My number one rule for using these products is to start low and go slow. I started with a low-concentration product once a week and worked my way up as my skin became accustomed to it. And this is my golden rule: always, always wear sunscreen. Chemical exfoliants can make your skin more vulnerable to the sun, so daily SPF is a non-negotiable part of my routine. When used correctly, these acids can truly transform your skin, giving you a level of clarity and radiance you might have never thought possible.

Which ones have you tried? What do you like best?

Article by: Dahlia Kelada MSHS-INTM, SALVE Founder/CEO and Integrative Medicine Educator

This information is for educational purposes only and is not intended to cure, prevent or treat any disease. Please use common sense and always talk to your doctor before starting any new treatment or application for a health condition.